The Dutch designer Van Herpen showcased the “Shift Souls” collection at the Musee des Beaux-Arts this week as part of the Paris Fashion Week.

Last year, she drew the attention at the haute couture fashion show with her silicon “Bird” dress and skeletal pieces made using 3D printing.

This year, the artist featured voluminous spheres, atypical forms and laser-cut detailing through 18 garments. The collection also presents a diversified colour palette, from indigo and purple to ochre and yellow; and has been created in collaboration with several artists and experts. Furthermore, the garments include prints that create optical illusions to “distort the body”.

According to its website, the ‘Symbiotic’ volume of dresses “are made from gradient- dyed silks” arranged on a lasercut PETG frame, resulting therefore in “hybrid bird shapes […] that hover in symbiosis with the body like mythological creatures.”

However, what raises the most our attention is “Cellchemy”, a 3D printed face jewellery produced in collaboration with TU Delft. The Netherlands-based University of Technology has already proven itself in a wide range of projects. So far, it was acknowledged for its researches, not to mention that they trained students that built their business by integrating the 3D printing technology.

Anyway, the experts from TU Delft 3D scanned the model’s faces and mapped out a shape based on the shifts in density across the face. for Shift Souls, Iris V. H. “looked at the evolution of the human shape, its idealisation through time and the hybridisation of the female forms within mythology.”

The artist is acknowledged for applying innovative techniques to unusual materials in her collections, and it is certain that she does not intend to stop here.


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